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You made goals or resolutions for 2010. You have life-long goals, ambitions, hopes, dreams… So no more excuses - I challenge you to follow through and DO IT!!
10,000 Steps Challenge
That's the general number of steps needed to maintain a healthy cardiovascular system and help keep your weight in check. With environmental and emotional benefits to boot, let's start walking!
The Green Your Insides Challenge
For your family and our planet, start greening your own home!
There are five very cheap ways to amend your garden soil.
1. Create Your Own Compost Bin
If you have the space in your garden, for very little money you can compost your own kitchen waste, grass and garden clippings, and leaves. In a 4′x4′x4′ container, include half “brown” materials – straw, leaves, newspaper and other dry things – and half “green” materials - grass, food waste and other new materials.
Add lots of water, turn occasionally (every 3 days to 3 weeks, depending on how fast you want it to decompose), and wait (2 weeks to 4 months, depending on the weather, how often you turn it, and what you’ve included in the pile).
2. Create Your Own Worm Bin
A friend of mine is going to show me how to do this soon, so I’ll post about this soon. But in the meantime, if you looking for a smaller-scale way to recycle your kitchen scraps into luscious soil-amending goodness, check out Patti’s video:
3. Lasagna or In Situ Composting
In Situ Composting. This is the lazy gardener’s compost method. Here’s what I do: I line my garden paths with straw. As I’m weeding and cleaning up the garden, I throw everything into the path, on top of the straw. You can also add food scraps, but be aware that animals might come find them so choose cautiously. The paths will begin to decompose, rain and excess water from watering will keep it moist.
By next year, the paths will decompose and you can turn in the soil a bit and move your path to a new spot. Keep in mind that you can only use weeds that haven’t gone to seed, because this method doesn’t get compost hot enough to kill the seeds.
Lasagna/Sheet Mulch Gardening. Another lazy gardener’s compost method, essentially you create a 2′ tall compost pile all over your garden, alternating green and brown in each lasagna layer. If you do this in the fall, by spring you should be able to plant in rich soil! I looked for a good video to show you, but the above is the best I could find – it helps, anyway!
4. Plant Cover Crops
Fall or spring, you can plant cover crops – there are a plethora of options. Crimson clover (above) is one of my favorites, because it’s beautiful and brings a lot of nitrogen and organic matter into your soil. Peaceful Valley has some of the best resources – their Fall catalog has an amazing grid listing all their compost crops with each one’s benefits. However, if you find cover crops locally, you’re likely to happen upon ones that work best in your area.
5. Let Your City Do It For You
A good portion of local municipalities now have compost programs that work with your regular garbage pick-ups. Every Spring, we go get a truckload full for $10-20, depending on how big a load we want.
It is a lot of exercise to bring in a whole truck load of compost at a time – but with two people, a shovel and a wheelbarrow, you can unload it and mix it into your soil in 2-3 hours. And you feel really strong and well-exercised the next day!
Which Method Do You Use?
How have you amended your soil in the past? Will you try something new this year?
I love using straw for mulch – it’s cheap, breaks down easily, provides a nice cushion along garden paths, and extra bales are wonderful seats in the garden.
Most feed stores will sell both hay and straw, and I can’t tell you how many times I’ve been in the feed store and questioned myself about whether or not I was getting the right one. I’ve noticed that many garden blogs use the two terms interchangeably, but they are ABSOLUTELY AND UTTERLY NOT THE SAME. Gardeners beware!
Hay? No Way! Hay Is For Horses!
Hay. Hay is for horses… and pigs and cows and goats. In the store it’s often a bit greener than straw. Hay has SEEDS in it. So unless you want to grow hay all over your garden, don’t buy hay for mulch. Hay? No Way!
Straw Is For Mulch
Straw is a by-product of the wheat, oat, rye, or barley industries. After the seeds have been threshed and sold, the dry husks are bundled up and sold as straw. Straw, therefore, is without seeds. Straw saves seedlings. Straw is for mulch!
It seems like we are destined to have a new garden every year! Each year for the last several years, we’ve taken over old, unloved land and nourished it. We leave behind for others gloriously fertile soil and beds just waiting to be planted. The bad part? We leave behind a lot of blood, sweat, and tears – and planning, too.
Sigh.
If you’ve been following along, you’ll know we moved from Los Angeles, where we had a potted garden on concrete, to Geyserville, where we had a 2,000 square foot garden. Then we moved to Seattle, and I started a garden with my mom and we gardened on our fire escape. Then we got a community garden plot (aka “p-patch”), a couple miles away. Then we moved to a neighborhood closer to work, and the p-patch became 3 miles away.
And now I’m sooooo excited to say we have a new plot just down the street! Hooray!
Ok, here’s what we did last weekend….
Here we are, with loads of work to do. A very unloved patch of land, full of horrible, horrible weeds (morning glories, among others – they have long, long roots and seem like they pop out every where). There were several weird wire cages and fences, and numerous old metal and wooden poles and posts, plus raspberries all over, and clearly pretty poor soil.
The pots you see are garlic and rhubarb from our old plot.
So we dug and carted and weeded and dug and carted some more. Brutal work! But alas, we moved the raspberries to one place in the plot, rescued some beautiful chives, and cleared our new land.
Then we went with some friends down to Cedar Grove Compost, our municipal compost location, where we bought a truck load of “Booster Blend” (compost mixed with aged manure) for $11. It’s great for us city dwellers: we compost at home, it goes to Cedar Grove, they mix it with microbes and age it, and we buy it back for a small amount of money. Not bad!
After wheeling and dumping and digging and raking in several barrels of compost, voila! We have a plantable garden! I transplanted the garlic and rhubarb, and we now have a blank slate of good, nurtured soil.
This weekend we will plant!
The space is about 15 by 20 – almost twice as big as our old plot. It doesn’t seem like much, probably, to those of you who have large garden spaces. But it is a good amount of space if you use it well.
So… What Shall We Plant?
Currently, we have rhubarb, raspberries, chives and garlic. What else shall we plant? What’s your favorite unusual vegetable? What space-saving varieties have you found? Please help us maximize our garden space!
I’m still working away on some amazing projects that are keeping me beyond busy. I’ll be back soon!!
In the meantime, I’ve been interviewed by BizyMoms as one of their Top Home and Garden Bloggers of 2010. So cool! I’m honored to be in the midst of Ronda Hetzel and Susan Harris, both wonderful bloggers I admire. Here’s what they’ve said about us:
Meet some of the world’s most exclusive bloggers on Home and Garden issues
Bizymoms has chosen some of the world’s top-notch bloggers who are maintaining hugely popular blogs to discuss everything related to home and garden. Bizymoms recognizes these wonderful men and women for their great endeavor to reach out to humanity using the extraordinary power of blogging in such a positive way. This is an exceptional series of interviews with these bloggers to get an insight into their bright minds, and to understand what they stand for when it comes to home and garden. This series comes exclusively from Bizymoms for its reader community. Check it out and learn something new and unique from each of these world-class bloggers.
It’s awesome to me that they’ve included a representative that writes about sustainability in their Home and Garden top blogs. I do believe that is a bit of redefining normal, don’t you think??!
Anyway, please go check out my interview! I’d love to hear what you think (comments there don’t seem to be working – sorry, they’re working on it, some tech problem – so until they fix that feel free to comment here).
Hi everyone, thanks for the awesome response on the Vegetable Seed Giveaway! Joni at Hometown seeds wrote me the other day and told me how much she’s enjoyed reading everyone’s comments.
So, from the incredible “True Random Number Generator”, the winner is….
Jill!
Jill, please email me with your address and you’ll soon be the proud owner of Hometown Seeds’ Survival Pack. (Please email soon – you have until 14 March 12pm PST to email me, otherwise I’ll draw a new name!)
Apparently all I had to do was host a giveaway, and more would come to me – I had no idea! Well, I will share the wealth with you all as much as I can, starting with….
A 16 Seed Pack Giveaway!
Hometown Seeds is a small seed company in Utah, whose biggest claim to fame are their Survival Seed Packs. The seeds come in a vacuum sealed pack that will last at least 5 years. So that means you can use them as a starter pack for your garden now, or you can hold onto them in case of an emergency – in the freezer they will last up to 10 years!
What’s In The Survival Seed Pack?
The pack contains 16 easy to grow varieties of non-hybrid seeds (ie, you can save the seeds from your crops and plant them again the next year):
Lincoln Peas (5 oz)
Detroit Dark Red Beets (10 grams)
Kentucky Wonder Brown Pole Beans (5 oz)
Yolo Wonder Peppers (5 grams)
Champion Radishes (10 grams)
Lucullus Swiss Chard (10 grams)
Black Beauty Zucchini (10 grams)
Waltham Butternut Winter Squash (10 grams)
Bloomsdale Longstanding Spinach (10 grams)
Scarlet Nantes Carrots (10 grams)
Long Green Improved Cucumber (10 grams)
Rutgers Tomato (5 grams)
Golden Acre Cabbage (10 grams)
Romain Paris Island Cos Lettuce (5 grams)
Golden Bantem Sweet Corn (5 oz)
Yellow Sweet Spanish Onion (10 grams)
More!
The seed packs come with a very comprehensive instruction booklet – very cool. The seeds are also housed in double water tight packaging with optimum water content to increase storage life, and contain a total of 1.5 lbs. of GMO free seed – enough to plant 3/4 of an acre.
Too much for yourself? I’m sure you know another gardener who would love to share!
So…
Enter Your Name In The Comments For The Drawing!
I will randomly select a winner next Sunday at noon. Good luck!
Alright, I’m flat out admitting it: I took on a bit too much the past few days! So in light of our new Growing Challenge Evangelist Edition, I thought I would syndicate an oldie but goodie here. Which reminds me that I never did write a How To Save Vegetable Seeds – Part 2. I’m on it… Next week!
Since those of us in the Northern Hemisphere are beginning to order our seeds and plan our gardens, here is a list of things you need to know about each of your crops if you’re planning to save seeds this year.
Species
This is probably the most important bit of information you need to know when seed saving. Generally speaking, cross-pollination can occur between different plants from the same species.
What confused me in the past was that within a Family, there may be several species. For instance, in the Leguminosae (ie, Legume) Family, there are 12,000 different species. So I can simultaneously grow pigeon peas, runner beans, and lima beans, for example, and save seeds from each of them – they will not cross-pollinate because they are different species! As you can imagine, learning can considerably widen the breadth of what you can plant at the same time.
Pollination Method
Insect-pollinated plants are generally plants that have male and female flowers on the same plant. Squash plants are easy illustrations of this: you have the female flowers that have a mini-squash (“ovary”) at their base, and male flowers that do not. Depending on the species, these crops can be pollinated by honeybees, bumblebees, other bees, moths, butterflies, wasps, flies, and/or hummingbirds.
Self-pollinating plants have male and female flower parts within the same flower – these are called “perfect” flowers (ha, if only we were all so perfect!). Generally you only need one plant to create seeds from these plants. However, some of these are self-incompatible, which means they can only be pollenized by an insect or wind that carries pollen from another plant. And some of these, such as tomatoes and peppers, are greatly aided by wind- and insect-pollination.
Wind-pollinated plants are plants that rely on wind for pollination, such as corn, spinach, and many grains.
All three of these have the potential for cross-pollination. This means if you want to save seeds from these plants, you must isolate them from other plants in the same species.
Isolation
Physical isolation. Isolation distance is the distance a plant needs to be away from another plant of the same species in order to keep from cross-pollinating. However, in many instances you can isolate plants artificially by putting one plant in a greenhouse or wire cage, or covering the flowers with plastic, cloth, or wire mesh. In this case you must hand-pollinate any wind- or insect-pollinating plants.
Temporal isolation. If you want to grow more than one variety, plant the first one as early as you possibly can. When that plant starts to flower, you can sow seeds for the second variety. This works only if the second crop reaches its flowering stage after the first crop has already set its seeds and stopped shedding pollen.
Population Size
Always attempt to grow as many plants as you can in your garden, in order to preserve a wide range of genetic diversity within each crop. If you can only plant a few plants, you can hand-pollinate between your most vigorous plants in order to maintain maximum diversity within your crop. Make sure that when you are saving seeds, you save seeds from several different fruits.
Even if you are selecting for certain characteristics that you’d like to bring out within your next crop, a good rule of thumb is to focus on the plant, not the fruit.
Annual, Biennial, or Perennial
Annuals produce seed within the same year that they are germinated. Once the seed is produced, the mother plant dies.
Biennials produce seed the year after they are germinated. Once the seed is produced, the mother plant dies. These can be the most difficult seeds to save – particularly in the North, as the plants have to be overwintered. Mulch can protect them, but if your area is particularly cold you may have to bring your plant indoors, cover it in a cold frame, or dig, store, and then replant the roots in the spring.
Perennials generally produce seed every year, and live several years before the mother plant dies.
Important Books
How do you learn all of these qualities of your seeds? Read. Read the packets of seeds, read nursery websites, read Master Gardener information, read blogs and forums, read your gardening books, and read seed saving books. It’s an incredible experience to save seeds and grow them the following year, but it’s only incredible if you do it with the knowledge you need!!
We are living in difficult economic times. Join us in saving our family budgets and helping our local communities thrive.
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